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Tim Smith Winery Interview

Australia

April 2007

 

 

Last April 11 of us gathered at Biaggi’s Restaurant in Eden Prairie for an Australian Shiraz Wine Dinner.  Our wine group was set up so that everyone brings a bottle to share and we taste them blind (no one knows which bottle is being poured).  One wine stood out and it was an overwhelming favorite of the night the 2003 Tim Smith Barossa Valley Shiraz.  Tim Smith the owner of the winery found my review on the worldwide web and contacted me.  Almost everyone who I have asked has not heard of his wines but that is the beauty of the world of wine.  For every corporate winery making mediocre wines there are the smaller wineries that are passionate about their product.  This online interview will give you a little more information on a truly remarkable wine maker.

 

 

The Wines

The following wines are what Tim Smith currently produces.  These are traditionally what you would see from a Rhone producer from France.  The Northern Rhone focuses on Syrah (called Shiraz in Australia) and the Southern Rhone produces Chateauneuf du Pape (called Grenache grape in the rest of the world).

 

Tim:  I  make 2 Wines as a core focus: Tim Smith Barossa Valley Shiraz and Tim Smith Barossa Valley Mataro (Mourvedre)/Grenache/Shiraz. 

 

Barossa Valley is home to some of the best Shirazes in the world.  I am excited as Tim will be releasing a Viognier wine in 2007 and a 2005 “Reserve” Shiraz.  The 2005 Vintage is an exciting one from Australia as the growing conditions have created some amazing wines.

 

Vineyard Locations

Barossa Valley and Eden Valley which are right by each other and are close to the city of Adelaide.

 

Oak Barreled Wines

Many of the best wines in the world are aged in oak barrels which bring complexity to the wines that stainless steel fermenting can’t offer.  The most expensive barrels are made of French Oak.  American Oak is an alternative along with old French oak.  Wineries vary the length of aging in the barrels and of course when the wine is transferred into a bottle the barrels are properly cleaned for the next vintage.  With most inexpensive wines are steel fermented due to cost reasons.

 

Tim:  Approximately 20% New American Oak for the Shiraz with 80% older American oak.

Reserve Shiraz is all French Oak.

Mataro blend is all old French oak.

 

Awards/Reviews

Tim:  I’m not really into trying to ‘win awards’ as I think it sets a tone for winemaking to be some sort of competition, to be better than the next maker. All winemakers make their wines to the very best of their ability, but more importantly, to their chosen style. Some styles will always ‘win awards’ and others may not necessarily do so. For that reason, I choose to not enter wine competitions. I do however, like to submit to journalists or forums for review, as they tend to see wines in a more global  context than I usually do, so I find this feedback, one way or the other, valuable.

 

Reviews will always be up to the person drinking the wine at any given time.  When I review a wine, it is how it is showing at the present.  I don’t add points and predict the future of its evolution. 

 

Personal Philosophy in Regards to Producing Wine

Tim:  Ultimately, I want to see a combination of ripe fruit aromas on the nose, with the palate showing depth and concentration. More importantly, I want textural elements on the palate, and for this reason I believe that the right oak choice here is critical, along with ageing the wines on fine lees until bottling time. I’m not scared about oak use, only to emphasize that I want classy, sexy oak characters. Sometimes, less is more……

 

Oak barreling is critical in achieving a truly great wine.  Steel fermenting is dominate in the majority of wines under $20 and it really shows in the lack of complexity of these wines.

 

Question/Answer Session

How long have you been involved in the wine business and how did you get started?

I started in the wine industry as a cellar hand at Yalumba in 1987.  I was working in the entertainment industry prior to this, then settled in the Barossa Valley, and became obsessed with the area (still am).  I have worked for St Hallett, Tatachilla, and worked in Portugal, New Zealand and France for a number of vintages.

 

I wanted other people to get the same enjoyment out of drinking wine that I enjoy drinking and the only way to do that, was to make the wine myself!!

 

What was the best advice you ever received for creating great wine?

I’ve had advice form a number of high profile people in the industry, but perhaps, one of the statements that I always have in the back of my mind, came from Alberic Mazoyet, who was the Chief Winemaker with Chapoutier in the Rhone Valley.  He said to me that the most important thing was “To have spirit in your winemaking approach.”  This statement still sits in the back of mind to this day.  His inference was that, maybe, some people might not notice (or care) about the little 1% things you do to make great wine, but I will.  And if you know you have done every possible thing possible, you have done your very best.

 

Do you care about professional ratings such as Parker and Spectator?

Only if I get high points….Seriously, both these reviewers cop their fair share of adulation and criticism, and neither are a perfect system. But for me, every person has an opinion on wine, and nobody is right or wrong, just opinionated.  I listen to every person’s opinion, take it on board, but ultimately, I have a few dogmas I adhere to and won’t be talked out of. Sometimes, I get praise from certain quarters, sometimes I don’t.  You cannot please everybody, which is why we have a wonderful range of wine styles to choose from.

 

Do you currently consult with any other wineries?

Not really, I’m too busy looking after my own wines and holding down a job as Group Winemaker with Chateau Tanunda, in the Barossa Valley.  I always get to look at my friends wines though, and help them, but nothing too serious.

 

Outside of Australia what are your favorite wines?

Bandol: Domaine Tempier, Rhone Valley: Almost anything from Guigal, Northern Rhone; Cote Rotie from Jasmin, Condrieu.Southern Rhone; Chateauneuf du Pape from a number of producers, Gigondas from Louis Barruol. Portugal: a lot of great new young guys making good gear out of the Alentejo. I do need to mention the producer in Portugal that I help, Azamor, the estate of Alison and Joaaquim Luis Gomes, but I am biased….

 

What was the most challenging situation you encountered prior to harvest?

Convincing my bank manager there is a future in the wine industry….

 

I have noticed that Australian Shiraz is much more approachable when young then the Northern Rhone’s.  Why is that?

We tend to get riper tannins in Australia, but the trade off for that is that we also have to tolerate higher alcohol levels as well. Northern Rhone wines seem to have ‘firmer’ as opposed to ‘dryer’ tannins and need time to polymerize and soften. Which makes it difficult for somebody as impatient as me...  

 

What does the future hold for Tim Smith wines and the industry as a whole in Australia?

Tim Smith Wines: The plan has always been and always will be to make wine that are of high quality, approachability as young wines, but with the backbone to age into the medium term with confidence.

The industry as a whole in Australia?  As the big 3 or 4 producers globalize their operations and wine styles, it will open up a whole new host of opportunities for smaller producers to make wines with a distinct point of difference.

 

Who is the most famous person you shared a glass of wine with?

There’s been a few, mostly ‘famous’ winemakers though I’d be hesitant to name anybody though, for fear of denting any ego’s of those I don’t mention.

 

I must say that I was thrilled when Tim Smith contacted me half way across the world.  I have been raving about his wine since the Australian Wine Event over a year ago.  His wines are carried locally and I will be posting where they are available and future reviews of his new releases.

 

A special thanks to Tim for taking time to answer the questions.

 

Cheers Mate!

 

Wineglas Reviews of Tim Smith Wines

 

2003 Tim Smith Grenache 83%, Mataro 12%/ Shiraz 5%

Color:  Medium purple

Nose:  Smoke, Blueberries, Floral

Taste:  Fine tannins, a little bit tart at first.  By no means an overpowering wine with very little distinct fruit.  Floral and earth tones dominate.

Finish:  Very long complex finish.  Very multi layered with buttery notes towards the end. 

Evaluation:  This is a very well made wine that will improve with more bottling time.  93 points

2003 Tim Smith Barossa Valley Shiraz

Color:  Dark purple with dense looking juice

Nose:  Mild alcohol, plum, floral, massive sensation you can smell across the room with crushed rock and cherry.

Taste:  Extremely dense and chewy with floral, raspberries, earth, pepper and exotic spices.

Finish:  Floral and crushed rock in this three minute plus finish that has buttery notes.  Later on pepper and exotic spices take over.  One of the most complex finishes I have ever experienced.

Evaluation:  For the $50 retail value this is the best QPR wine I have ever had!!!  400 cases of this were made and I am going to search for more ASAP.  This is my second bottle of this and my first official score in the 97-100 range.  97 points

2007 Tim Smith Adelaide Hills Viognier

Color:  Light gold

Nose:  Floral, mineral, grapefruit

Taste:  Floral, mineral, grapefruit, very fresh

Finish:  Very balanced wine with a light composure.  This wine would appeal to those who complain a wine is to intense.

Evaluation:  New world Viognier at its best.  90 points

2005 Mataro/Grenache/Shiraz Barossa Valley

Color:  Dark purple

Nose:  Big with blackberries, plums, pepper, violets

Taste:  Blackberries, plum, violets, mineral

Finish:  LONG. A tasty wine with black fruits, floral, and mineral elements intermixed to perfection.  These 3 wines are blended well.

Evaluation:  A big wine that a Shiraz drinker would really enjoy.  93 points

2006 Mataro/Grenache/Shiraz Barossa Valley

Color:  Medium purple

Nose:  Blackberry, truffles

Taste: Blackberry, black pepper, truffles

Finish:  Violets emerge after 20 seconds with black pepper and violets along for the ride.

Evaluation:  Elegant compared to the 05.   A solid wine.  90 points

2005 Tim Smith Barossa Valley Shiraz

Color:  Black (Teeth stains)

Nose:  Blackberry, black pepper, smoke, Asian spices

Taste:  Raspberry, blackberry, pepper, spice,

Finish:  Blackberry, spice, oak, vanilla, black pepper, violets

Evaluation:  Not as good as the 03 but a powerhouse.  95 points

Main Event Wine

2005 TSW Reserve Barossa Valley/McLaren Vale Shiraz

Color:  Dark purple

Nose:  Truffles, light cedar

Taste:  Truffles, black pepper, multi layered wine

Finish:  Smooth and long with black pepper, blackberries, vanilla, oak, spice, and truffles.

Evaluation:  The 2nd best wine I have tried to date.  97 points

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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